Wednesday, July 16, 2008

My Life Aquatic

After two weeks at the shore I'm finally starting to find a rhythm with the ocean. I go out in the late afternoon to my
beach and scan the waves for surf. The hurricane winding through the North Atlantic has brought fairly regular swells so there's something to paddle out for. The surf isn't West Coast dramatic - 3-5 feet - but it makes for some good rides. My beach is mostly nasty shore break but there's one sandbar and when the tide is right you can fly for a good hundred yards. I have a decent boogie board up here and so I swim out and do what I can without flippers (which I might buy tomorrow). This is WASP territory, a lot of blonde teens with surf shorts, but today there was a guy near sixty out there moving beautifully.
In the first days the ocean was alien and disconcerting. Getting wet and seawater in my nose felt unpleasant. But now I lust for it. Paddling out through the surf line, bobbing at the edge of the break waiting for one good wave. After a
severe wipeout today I found a a horseshoe crab the size of my fingernail on the board. Oily black cormorants dive in the water around us. Surfcasters come out at dust and work the rocks near the sand bar. You want it to go on forever.


dreshny said...

You and I have something in common! I got my first Boogie board when I was about twelve, and the next year, my dad got me a fancy one because I managed to get an A in math. I was sort of a social pariah at school, but in the ocean, ah! I spent hours riding that board! The thrill of riding a wave to shore, the fury of the ocean beneath the board, the taste of salt! I long for that feeling.

Robot Boy said...

I spent large portions of my childhood in and around the ocean. I dream of it constantly. One of the main reasons I decided to take a fellowship in Orange County next year is that my brother lives nearby and is a hardcore surfer.